Subsequent on our ” Unintended Coincidence ” post, a friend having a LoA DIANA 34 EMS wanted to change calibers. He was not pleased with the 0. 177″ good quality as it seemed to be on the “loose” side and pellets dropped when he swung the particular action closed.
So , we all sourced a few barrels through DIANA and, while it got some time, I think the results are excellent.
Process is not complicated however it does require a specific purchase of operations.
You start if you take the action out of the share, a simple three screw procedure that we all know how to perform.
Then you need to take out the trunk sight and the front view. Rear sight is no issue because the screws are noticeable. Just make sure that you do NOT loose the particular 0. 5 mm’s basketball that creates the “clicks” in the rear sight height knob.
The front sight nevertheless , is a bit more tricky since under the visible “thread protector” there is a nut, and in the trunk sight ramp itself, there exists a grub screw:
Front sight assembly
Thread protector removed plus nut loosened.
Following the grub screw has been loose, the whole ramp can come away from.
Therefore , now without the sights, we are able to start working on the action
Unlock the “knee” in the compound linkage plus disconnect the linkage through the piston
You can now undo-options the main barrel block bolt/axle. Be sure to use TWO hammers. Since there are Loc-Washers on BOTH edges, when “undoing” the bolt, you will feel it tensing and then releasing.
If the cocking addition bothers you, now is the time in order to disconnect it from the obstruct. There is a small grub mess on the distal end that will “locks” this screw in position. Loosen that, and then take away the affixing screw. Personally, it does not bother me personally so , I always work with the particular linkage connected.
You can even work with the rear view on, but then you should be cautious
And now you can slip the barrel block out from the forks.
You can find two thick washers that offer for clearance between the barrel or clip block and the forks. Those people can be lifted with a solid magnet.
Now you have to insert a tool that stops the barrel from revolving when you loosen the barrel or clip locking castle nut
Using this special socket. Along with a 3/8″ breaker bar, a person give the breaker bar an excellent “Whack” with a plastic mallet
Once it has damaged loose, you can remove it making use of any other socket handle
As in many gunsmithing that involves actions, it is advisable to set everything under stress and then “whacking” the wrench tool than to try to break the particular tightness smoothly. This is one of the most complicated things because it appears that you would need three fingers. You don’t, but you need to do this suddenly.
When the castle nut comes out, it is possible to remove the breech seal/O’Ring
Using a PP/dead-blow hammer, a person separate the barrel from your block
If you are simply changing barrels, you just the actual reverse procedure to install the brand new barrel.
BUT , the truth is that will now is the time to do whatever you wish done to the barrel. Through re-crowning to polishing the particular rifling with JB, or even lapping the bore in case you are so inclined. Personally, I like to clean the particular barrels very well and then shine the bore and rifliig with JB bore insert. In this image you can see clearly, from remaining to right how the “exiting” pellets show less and less scrapes and deformations as the procedure goes along:
From left to correct: OEM barrel finish, after that after a few passes along with JB Bore paste, after that after the whole treatment continues to be done.
If you think that the difference will be purely cosmetic and wanting to know ¿ “what does it issue if a pellet looks unpleasant when it comes out of the bore”? after that look at the edges of the dresses:
The rougher edges always translate inside a skirt that is more unequal.
Every bit of direct scraped out of place, instead of swaged into a new shape of the particular pellet is a disturbing impact not only on the pellet depart from the crown, but also at the pellet path. Shards left in the weary may adhere to the next pellet and create a “vane” which will send a flyer from the aimpoint.
This barrel or clip was additionally re-crowned.
Finally, the work performed paid out.
Exactly what counts is performance on the target, and with the barrel’s preferred pellets, it did very well for a break-barrel in the fifteen ft-lbs class:
Best group is 10 photos from the FT position from 15 meters (about 16½ yds) with a 4X range, and the bottom group can also be a 10 shot group, using open sights at ten m.
I don’t know just how it was shooting before, yet I do know that any realistic target at normal split barrel airgun range is within danger with this rifle.