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one – Swapping the trigger cutting blades WILL invalidate the warranty of the rifle.
second . – ANY user intervention within the triggers MAY result in an UNSAFE situation. Once you get into the trigger you might be on your own.
three or more. – I have no control of YOUR OWN actions, so I can take NO obligation for the results YOU get. This process demonstrated safe and sound in MY gun. I cannot assure that it will be the same in YOUR OWN.
Back in May 2018, I had written a note about the then available “Super Custom” Triggers for the LGU/LGV rifles.
In the original submit we discussed European versions, yet on this one we will discuss a north american design.
For people who have not followed my interest in these types of fine guns, I would suggest you take time to read these entries:
As you can see, I am a great enthusiast of the LGV, considering it the best breakbarrel rifle in recent production. We might have to go a few decades to the past to get something better.
These models had been in creation for less than 6 years, and in those six years, not less than 4 trigger blades arrived to the market, WHY?
Savvy airgunners have been confused about how could Walther put this kind of bad trigger on such a great gun.
And here is where I occasionally ask myself questions that I understand would be very “uncomfortable” for a producer to answer, but that certainly point to a marketing strategy that does not take into account the simple truth that “There are no second ‘First Impressions’ ”
Whenever we analyze the cold facts, they may be:
– Rifles are very good weapons, among the breakbarrels, the LGV does not have any peer. The LGU faces firm competition from other fixed barrel weapons that are just as good, if not a little better, depending on the criteria used for knowing.
– Price, when they to enter the market was high. Granted, ALL airgun prices were high back then; generally, prices have come down as requirement has grown, production volumes have increased, and more brands/models are available.
— Simultaneous to the launch of the gun itself, Walther launched a “Match Abzug” (MA) that promised a much better release but , again, price has been high.
– In a minumum of one market, the rifles were Limited WITH the MA, at considerably increased price still.
– At some time, up to 6 different “variants” had been offered of the LGV. From “De Luxe” models to “Workhorse” versions.
To be honest, as an online marketing strategy, this is a recipe for trouble.
Those that could ONLY buy the costly versions thought about it and possibly didn’t, or if they did might always question their decision.
Those that bought the “economy” variations would not buy the accessory trigger.
Everyone agreed that the weapons were between good and excellent, but still the market response did not warrant the costs of production, one by one, the various variants of the LGV were fallen. Unconfirmed information says that Walther has decided to discontinue ALL breakbarrel rifles. Even when the try was never made to market the particular “Century” (a sort of economy LGV with all the good characteristics, but nothing of the fineries) in the USA
That is a pity.
And it is exactly what brings us to this entry.
As with many things in this “CoVid-19” entire world of “stay at home and do something”, some people with the skills and the devices in their workshop now have the time to really do some serious stuff.
Within my cybertravels through the airgunning community, I stumbled upon an interesting post about “yet one more offering for triggers” for the LGU/LGV, and it piqued my curiosity.
And this is how I fulfilled Eric. Eric lives in Texas, and is a great guy. Modest and humble, it’s a pleasure to deal with him. He could be also talented. At first he mentioned he had developed another trigger for your LGV/LGU rifles but that he required to polish some aspects, a few months afterwards, he comes up with fully finished prototypes. So many corporations would LOVE to have that period of “Start to Finish R& D”, LOL!
Why don’t get to the trigger:
Among the benefits: there are two possible positions to get a second stage, one that provides for a mild pull, and another one that provides to have an even lighter pull, at the expenditure of a little “crispness”.
In ways this is similar to the Rowan Engineering edition, but if we compare them alongside they are not quite the same:
Through left to right: Walther’s MOTHER, Eric’s trigger, and Rowan Anatomist (RE) Trigger.
While the LSO ARE trigger allows the user to move the entire trigger blade back, it also winds up needing a “shoe” that is too wide to operate/work on the induce. If you want to remove the stock, or change the second stage (in the “heavy” position), you need to remove the blade as well as the holding post.
Eric’s induce does away with that.
Eric’s cutter is further back, and one from the common complaints about the LGU/LGV share is that the pistol grip is really large and seems to be made for giant’s fingers.
Some shooters (even 1 previous World Champion) hold that will huge pistol grips prevent the player with the dice from inadvertently twisting the weapon when releasing the shot, which is very true, but it is also true that will techniques exist to teach ourselves to use a slowly increasing force that will not twist the gun and therefore will not affect the shot. IN any case, the most common variations of the LGU that you see within the competition circuit have ALL had their particular stocks replaced.
As far as modifying the distance between pistol grip plus trigger blade, Eric’s trigger utilizes a novel approach, and that is a stress plate that can be moved in/out which means that it shortens or lengthens that will distance.
Eric’s trigger can also be a bit more swept back, and so the stress plate could be used as a “Register Mark”, ensuring uniform trigger little finger placement.
We also remember that RE’s trigger has rounded mess faces, while Eric’s trigger offers pointed faces. This is a result of the marketplace they are oriented at; RE’s induce is sold mostly to fairly novice airgunners, as a “drop-in”, while Eric’s trigger assumes that users have previously taken the time to stone and shine all interacting surfaces.
Indeed, if you are looking for the LIGHTEST possible induce pull in an “untreated” trigger prevent, then RE’s trigger will give you that will, BUT , if you are looking for a compromise in between extreme lightness and total quality and you are willing to stone and gloss your trigger parts, or deliver them out to a Pro, then Eric’s trigger can more easily accomplish this, along with less fuss because you can alter all aspects of the trigger draw with the trigger blade in the weapon, without the trigger guard (more upon that later).
To set up Eric’s trigger is simple; you disassemble the gun and when you have the particular trigger block out and the clamshell taken apart, you take out the old trigger (on the left is the OEM “economy” trigger with the lengthened screw from the “Yankee tune”, on the right will be Eric’s trigger):
And put within the new one:
You will need the crochet hook or some other catch to get that spring out and in again, so DO REFER your blog entry about “Swapping triggers” previously discussed.
Once you have swapped the causes, you will need to adjust the screws.
Eric sends a very fascinating manual that details STARTING factors for the protrusion of those screws and am found the manual absolutely correct. SO , DO READ IT!
Once that is done, you are able to close the gun and start the specific fine tuning.
Upon some extensive assessment, I found that FOR ME, the ripped pressure plate gave a “strange” feel, to the point of being distracting, since the pressure plate always keeps exactly the same orientation, when lowered to the final hole, the feeling was that I was getting a “crooked” way.
So , Eric agreed to make two versions: 1 with a curved blade, and an additional with the “flatish” trigger blade
I found also another alternative that is truly viable only with very low trigger pulls, and that is changing the screw with a button going allen screw that presents the hemispherical shape to the touch of the hands:
At cause pulls above 1# this is considerably tiring in the long run, but below that it can be an eminently usable solution.
If you note, here I have a completely assembled and functional gun with no trigger guard, how is this probable?
Well, Eric designed and can include as part of the kit two plastic-type material “D”s that allow you to get the gun back again together to the point where you can actually take it, and still have completely open up access to the screws for modification.
You can see one of the “D”s within the picture above.
I tested the trigger within an “untreated” LGU trigger block (my LGV being “on loan” for the lengthy and really serious experiment), primarily to see what difference the 40-60 minutes of stoning and polishing parts would gain a present shooter, but also to get a feeling of how filter the market would be for Eric (difference would be between a few hundred to a couple thousand).
And I found out the lightest trigger pull I could obtain was an extremely rewarding 1# two oz . with great consistency.
Almost anyone should be able to live with that.
In a stoned and refined trigger block, pulls can be reduced to levels that I would not think about safe for 90% of the photographers (just watch Eric’s video referenced below), but in the end it is every single one of us who are responsible for our activities.
Eric has also decided to send, to those that request this, a “ball end” for the stress plate, something like this:
I was very happy to work with Eric on this project, and since they are still in the pre-production phase, there are several changes that will be inevitable.
BTW, you can see Eric’s video right here:
In case you are interested in finding out more about this result in, or if you want to buy one, drop Eric a line at:
Tell him you saw this, please.
Maintain well and shoot straight!